Wapmaxi Time To Change 2015
OCBD Review: Spier and Mackay ( Crosspost x FrugalMaleFashion)
Hey guys, I posted this over in the FMF and there was a pretty good response to this, and figured that you guys would enjoy it just as much. I figured I would do a small review of a Canadian company that I have discovered in the last few months. I know OCBD’s ( Oxford Cloth button downs) are a big part of this community for its aesthetics and how easy it is to wear and match with denim and chinos.I will be doing the review based on criteria that I think suits this subreddit most, and on criteria that I believe are important when purchasing clothes. I will be comparing this shirt with a few other OCBD’s I have from other companies I have to give you an idea of where the shirts sit in the hierarchy of Oxford shirts.This shirt will be rated on: Construction, fabric, fit, collars and price point.Spier and MackayAlbum of Shirt and CollarBackgroundI only recently came across this brand through their affiliate thread on SF. It’s a Canadian brand that opened up 6 years ago, they have been doing shirts and suits off the rack, as well as custom at a very attractive price point. Being from the same city, I decided to head over to their showroom, and try on a few suits and shirts. To my surprise, the quality to value ratio has been one of the best I have encountered so far. In a few short months, I have quickly become a fan.Construction:Spier and Mackay shirts are made in India. They seem to cut most of their off the rack shirts with a semi spread, but have a few full spreads and button downs in the mix. Their button downs have slowly become better, and now have a very nice lightly fused collar. The points are a bit longer similar to my Kamakura shirt, giving the shirt a nice structured roll. Even after a few washes, the collar really holds its shape versus some of collars that I have worn.The shirt has a very high SPI (stitch per inch) coming in at around 18-21 for some really solid sewing. Stitching is neat and clean and I didn’t find any loose threads anywhere. It has all the standard reinforcements on the shirt you would want from any quality shirt, nice gussets and clean plackets. Button down buttons have reinforced backings. The shirts come with white, natural river shell buttons, that has a nice shine to them. The button stitching looks sturdy, but time will tell.This shirt came with a diamond pocket, and rounded cuff. I’m personally a fan of the rounded cuff versus the mitred cuff as it is a bit cleaner to me. It also comes with a box pleat in the back which is pretty standard with my Kamakura and J Crew/Everlane shirts that I have.Construction Rating: 9/10Fabric:The fabric is a “brushed” oxford, with an excellent hand feel to it. Out of the package, the shirt is a bit stiffer, but after a few washes, the fabric settles down very nicely. I asked them about this, and they claim it’s because of the density of the cloth. I can believe this, it is a bit heavier than my Kamakura shirt, my Kamakura is more of a dress oxford, where as this is closer to a truer casual oxford.The fabric colour is very nice as well; the one in the album I’m wearing is their Ocean blue, a bit brighter than their light blue. It has a little more pop and is a nice pairing for jeans or summer khakis. I was originally planning to get the light blue oxford, but I have too many of those already.They also have a white and burgundy oxford, which I may pick up in the future.In comparison to my Everlane shirts, the fabric has held up much better after a few washes, and has kept it shape much better.It feels a bit more substantial than my Kamakura shirt which has kept its shape very well over time.The brushing is very subtle in the fabric, more like a peach fuzz. it does not seem to pill, and is very close to a traditional oxford fabric that you would find at Brooks Brothers. The fabric is also very hard wearing, and does not seem to be as fragile as some other oxfords I own.Overall, the fabric weight is very solid and keeps it shape very well. It has a brushed finish, but settles down very nicely after a few washes. Very easy to wear, and the available colours are very decentFabric Rating:9/10Fit:I am very keen on finding an OTR (off the rack) shirt that fits well and doesn’t require me to have alterations done on it. I am just too lazy to bring it to a tailor to have it taken in. Which is why I was delightfully surprised when I tried on the 15 Slim in store. It fit well on my shoulders, had a nice taper in the waist and was both long enough in the sleeve and overall length. I am not too difficult to buy off the rack, but it is difficult to find a shirt that fits like a true slim and tapered without it looking too tight. I have slight posture issues which give me slight pulls around my shoulder / armpit area, but overall the shirt is quite comfortable and is what I’m looking for in an OTR shirt. I have tried many shirts OTR, such as Topman, Zara, Bonobos, Kamakura, Everlane, Jcrew and Steven Alan. Between the bunch, Bonobos, Kamakura and Steven Alan have come pretty close to my ideal fit as well. Topman and Zara gave me slight issues as their clothing was a bit tighter in the shoulder and arm area.Overall, I’m very happy with the OTR fit here. I have enough room for movement and is still fitted in the chest and waist and is very comparable to some more expensive shirt brands that I own.Fit rating: 9/10Collar:The most important part of OCBD review, the collar. The collar to me is the most significant part of this shirt because it is what everyone sees first. Whenever I wear a crewneck, or jacket over this shirt, I want to make sure that this is still visible and has a distinctive collar roll. The main reason I bought this shirt was because the collar roll sat large and open, very similar to my Kamakura shirt that I had bought previously for more than double the price. For me, the collar roll is very significant. When I wear a shirt with less of a prominent roll, it feels like any other dress shirt. Like my Everlane or Steven Alan shirts, the collar sits almost flat because the collar points are shorter, and come unfused and end up limp and floppy. This Spier and Mackay shirt has a lightly fused collar which helps shape the collar, again very similar to my Kamakura shirt. The collar points are a bit longer, and look to be around 3.5’. The actual collar height is a bit higher on me, but sits very well around my neck. I don’t wear closed collar OCBD shirts anyways, so this shirt is spot on for how I wear it. The roll is very reminiscent of Brooks Brother’s traditional collar roll, and is overall very clean and a bit different than shirts you find in malls.Collar Rating: 9.5/10Price:With the current state of the Canadian dollar, I have been having troubles shopping online and finding a Canadian brand was something on my top priority list. I used to shop Kamakura, Luxire and sometimes mall brands as well. With our dollar being a 30% increase in price, it started to become quite expensive buying shirts. When I first came across this brand on Styleforum, I was very excited. A Canadian company doing shirts at a very good price and they were pricing in Canadian dollars, which is bonus. I decided to drop by one day to try for my size, and they fit pretty true to size.I was than informed in store that there was bundle pricing as well. The deal was $9 off per shirt when you bought 3 or more, essentially dropping a $54 dollar shirt to $45 Canadian. H&M prices, for high quality shirting.The shirt prices range from $48 – $64 for some of the more premium fabrics. When bundled, the price drops to $39 – $55 CAD.It may seem a bit pricier than say Uniqlo shirts, but the construction and quality is in a different league altogether.For you United States guys, the regular price shirts range from approx. $37 – $50 USD. When you get the bundled price it drops to $30 – $42 USD.For a shirt that cost less than an H&M shirt, that is both well constructed and with a superb collar roll that is exactly what I’m looking for? It cannot be beat. Even on the opposite spectrum, I am a huge fan of Kamakura and would recommend them as well, but their price point sits higher as , and isn’t as viable than S&M in the long run if you’re looking for shirts.Overall, the pricing structure is very attractive to US customers, but personally finding a Canadian shirting company that sells this kind of quality for a reasonable price in CAD is a lifesaver.Price Rating: 10/10.Conclusion:For your best bang for the buck, both aesthetically and value wise, Spier and Mackay come out first.
Mens Hair Styles 2015
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